Shirting fabrics

Cotton twill shirting fabrics, heavy-weight woven

DGFT CLEARANCE

HSN 5209 12 20 (Shirting fabrics) is subject to the ITC (HS) import policy administered by the Directorate General of Foreign Trade (DGFT), which requires a Pre-Shipment Inspection Certificate confirming the absence of prohibited azo dyes under General Note 10 of the ITC (HS) policy. The azo-dye testing requirement applies to imports from all origins except the nine exempted countries notified in DGFT Public Notice 14/2023.

What this is

HSN code

5209 12 20

Chapter

52 · Cotton

Primary regulator

DGFT · ITC (HS) import policy, General Note 10 (azo-dye testing), Chapter 52

Customs documentation

Pre-Shipment Inspection Certificate from accredited lab
Azo-dye test report from exporter
ITC (HS) policy declaration from DGFT

Compliance steps

1
Obtain a Pre-Shipment Inspection Certificate from an accredited laboratory of the exporting country, or a valid test report from a Textile Committee or CSRTI laboratory, certifying the absence of prohibited azo dyes. This requirement applies to all origins except EU, Serbia, Poland, Denmark, Australia, Canada, Japan, South Korea, and the United Kingdom.
General Note 10 of the ITC (HS) Import Policy · DGFT Public Notice 14/2023 dated 14-06-2023
2
Upload the Pre-Shipment Inspection Certificate and supporting test report in e-Sanchit before filing the bill of entry. Consignments without documentary evidence of azo-dye compliance are liable to detention pending testing or re-export.
General Note 10 of the ITC (HS) Import Policy · DGFT Public Notice 14/2023 dated 14-06-2023

A word of counsel

The most common error on this tariff line is assuming that procurement from a major trading hub — such as the UAE or Hong Kong — qualifies for the country-of-origin exemption when the fabric itself was manufactured in a non-exempted country. The azo-dye testing obligation follows the country of origin of the fabric, not the country of export; a re-export through an exempted jurisdiction does not confer the exemption, and a consignment lacking a compliant PSIC is detained at the port of import.

Need a regulatory steer on this product?

Speak to a regulatory counsel about your specific HSN, IS, and supplier situation.

Speak to an Expert

Frequently asked

Does HSN 5209 12 20 require BIS certification?

No, heavy-weight cotton twill shirting fabrics are not within the BIS Quality Control Order regime. Import is governed by the ITC (HS) import policy administered by the Directorate General of Foreign Trade, with the primary operative obligation being the azo-dye Pre-Shipment Inspection Certificate requirement under General Note 10.

Which countries are exempt from the azo-dye testing requirement for this tariff line?

Per DGFT Public Notice 14/2023 dated 14-06-2023, imports from the EU, Serbia, Poland, Denmark, Australia, Canada, Japan, South Korea, and the United Kingdom are exempt from azo-dye testing; all other origins must submit a Pre-Shipment Inspection Certificate from an accredited laboratory.

Does the azo-dye exemption apply if the fabric is shipped from an exempted country but manufactured elsewhere?

No. The exemption under General Note 10 is tied to the country of origin of the fabric, not the country of shipment; fabric originating in a non-exempted country requires a compliant PSIC regardless of the country from which it is exported.

Last verified against gazette notifications: 2026-05-16. Source: DGFT / Indian Customs CUSDATA.