Parmatta fabrics (including ilesia, pocketing, Italian twill)

Cotton twill parmatta fabrics (ilesia, pocketing, Italian twill)

DGFT CLEARANCE

HSN 5208 23 20 (Parmatta fabrics including ilesia, pocketing, and Italian twill) is subject to the ITC (HS) import policy administered by the Directorate General of Foreign Trade (DGFT) under General Note 10, which mandates a Pre-Shipment Inspection Certificate certifying the absence of prohibited azo dyes. The azo-dye testing requirement applies to all origins except EU, Serbia, Poland, Denmark, Australia, Canada, Japan, South Korea, and the United Kingdom.

What this is

HSN code

5208 23 20

Chapter

52 · Cotton

Primary regulator

DGFT · ITC (HS) import policy, General Note 10 (azo-dye testing)

Customs documentation

Pre-Shipment Inspection Certificate from exporter
Test report from accredited laboratory
ITC (HS) policy declaration from DGFT

Compliance steps

1
Obtain a Pre-Shipment Inspection Certificate from an accredited laboratory of the exporting country, or a valid test report from the Textile Committee or CSRTI, confirming the absence of prohibited hazardous azo dyes before the consignment is shipped to India.
General Note 10 of the ITC (HS) Import Policy · DGFT Public Notice 14/2023 dated 14-06-2023
2
If the exporting country is the EU, Serbia, Poland, Denmark, Australia, Canada, Japan, South Korea, or the United Kingdom, the azo-dye testing exemption applies and no PSIC for azo dyes is required. Document the origin clearly on the bill of entry to avail the exemption.
General Note 10 of the ITC (HS) Import Policy · DGFT Public Notice 14/2023 dated 14-06-2023

A word of counsel

The most frequent error on this tariff line is assuming the azo-dye testing exemption extends to all textile-exporting countries. The exemption is origin-specific: imports from any country not in the nine-country list require a PSIC from an accredited laboratory, and the absence of this certificate at the bill-of-entry stage results in consignment detention pending PGA verification.

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Frequently asked

Does HSN 5208 23 20 require BIS certification?

No, woven cotton twill fabrics fall outside the BIS Quality Control Order regime. Import is governed by the Directorate General of Foreign Trade under General Note 10 of the ITC (HS) Import Policy, which mandates a Pre-Shipment Inspection Certificate covering azo-dye absence for most origins.

Which countries are exempt from azo-dye testing for this tariff line?

The EU, Serbia, Poland, Denmark, Australia, Canada, Japan, South Korea, and the United Kingdom are exempt from azo-dye testing per DGFT Public Notice 14/2023 dated 14-06-2023; all other origins must supply an accredited-laboratory PSIC.

Does the azo-dye PSIC exemption cover all textile compliance requirements for exempt-origin countries?

The exemption covers azo-dye testing only; other applicable ITC (HS) policy conditions and General Note requirements continue to apply regardless of the country of origin.

Last verified against gazette notifications: 2026-05-16. Source: DGFT / Indian Customs CUSDATA.